36 Hours in Indianapolis: How to Spend a Weekend in Indy
For weekend trips — and, honestly, all trips — the New York Times’ “36 Hours” series has been a lifesaver. It’s a great resource for hitting a bunch of a city’s high points in a short amount of time, and generally their recommendations are good.
After reading several of their articles for short trips to (for Paris, Tokyo, Portland, Maine, and the Florida Panhandle, just to name a few), I started thinking: If I were to write a guide on how to spend a great weekend in Indy, what would I include?
One of Indy’s best features is the fact that there’s great stuff happening all across the city — the fun isn’t relegated to the city center. Public transportation isn’t the most robust in the city (but if you’re headed north/south, the Red Line bus route is an excellent option), so you may need to break out your bike or hop in the car to reach all of these spots.
Downtown Brunch & A Museum Stop
Welcome to Indy! Let’s get acquainted with one of Indianapolis’ oldest neighborhoods, the Old Northside. This vibrant historic district was the most affluent area of the city at one time, and still boasts beautiful architecture, tree-lined streets, and walkability. It’s also home to a beautiful brunch, lunch, and pastry spot, Gallery on 16th. Stop by for their Brulee Trillium, a dish made with brie-style cheese from local cheesemaker Tulip Tree Creamery that’s torched and served with a toasted croissant, mixed berry compote, honey, and candied pecans. Wash it down with a latte, a glass of bubbles, or both!
From here, head west. We’re going to a museum — but the museum choice is up to you and your interests. Newfields, formerly known as the Indianapolis Museum of Art, holds an impressive collection of art with rotating exhibits and beautiful gardens. The Children’s Museum isn’t just for kids, but it’s a great place to take them. The Indiana Medical History Museum is a four mile drive from Gallery on 16th, or you can stay in the downtown area by visiting the Eiteljorg Museum of American Indians and Western Art. Literature fan? Visit the museum honoring Indy native Kurt Vonnegut’s work.
Rent Bikes & Ride the Monon Trail
After spending time at a museum, it’s time to get moving — and eating. Park your car and find a Pacers Bikeshare station, because we’re renting bikes and hitting the Monon Trail. All of the Bikeshare’s stations are located near the Cultural Trail, the mixed-use trail that traverses downtown Indianapolis. If you follow the Cultural Trail through downtown, it will lead you to the Monon, a 27-mile path that goes through the north half of Indianapolis and through Hamilton County.
Bike the Monon for six miles and you’ll find yourself in Broad Ripple. Local options abound in this area of the city, from bars and restaurants to local boutiques and specialty stores. We’re heading to Plump’s Last Shot for an Indiana classic, the breaded pork tenderloin sandwich. Plump’s was founded by Bobby Plump, a former basketball legend who follows only Larry Bird in the pantheon of Indiana basketball royalty. Set in an old house just off the Monon Trail, Plump’s is a no-frills sports bar serving classic American food and drinks. Order the pork tenderloin sandwich (breaded is the correct way to order, but they also offer grilled and blackened options) and you’ll be served a sandwich with a Frisbee-sized piece of pork on a comically small (standard sized) bun. Pounded thin, breaded, and fried, this is a piece of Hoosier pride on a plate.
After lunch, it’s time to jump on your bike for a short trip north for a beer. Ride a mile up the Monon and you’ll find yourself at Half Liter, a barbecue joint with a great patio and lots of fresh beer from their sister brewery, Big Lug. Try the Goat Ranch, an easy-drinking Helles lager, or Topanga, Big Lug’s pale ale.
Leave your bikes parked and mozy a block north up the Monon to find Lick, a tiny ice cream shop pumping out incredible, organic flavors in small batches. Flavors may include (depending on the season) Blueberry Sweet Corn Cookie, Raspberry Cheesecake, Berries & Champagne, Coffee Chip, Lavender Lemon, Gorgonzola Candied Pecan, Cedar & Whiskey, and more.
Dinner & A Local Nightcap
For dinner, head to Beholder, a creative restaurant that pushes the envelope with their ever-changing menu. Beholder is owned by the same chef behind Milktooth, a brunch spot that’s been recognized by Bon Appétit, Eater, and Conde Nast Traveler.
Don’t worry, though — even with all of the recognition, Beholder is an approachable (read: you don’t have to show up in a suit and tie, but you could) spot for dinner. Past plates include homemade pasta served with braised wagyu, duck confit ramen, hamachi sashimi, and their ever-changing beer-and-a-shot sandwich combo. See what I mean by approachable?
They’re also known for their cocktails, and have a sommelier on staff to help you choose the perfect wine for your meal.
After an incredible dinner at Beholder, head toward Massachusetts Avenue, or “Mass Ave.” You’ve got lots of options for your evening beverage: Try Nowhere Special, a dark and vibey basement bar, for specialty cocktails or mocktails. Stop by Ball & Biscuit, one of Indianapolis’ longest-running cocktail bars for a classic cocktail. Head to The Exchange, a craft cocktail bar stocked with hundreds of the best whiskeys from all over the world.
Not feeling Mass Ave? Head toward Mile Square to visit the upstairs neighbor of Indy classic St. Elmo’s Steakhouse: 1933 Lounge. Order a classic martini, the Elmo Cola (a mix of their house cherry vanilla bourbon + Coke), or a glass of wine. Grab the best seat in the house if it’s open — right by the fireplace — and reflect on a day well-spent eating and drinking around Indianapolis.
A Relaxed Breakfast & Coffee Shop Stop
After such a busy day, take it easy. Head to Sidedoor Bagel, a bagel shop slinging sourdough bagels that’s been named one of America’s best bagel shops by Bon Appétit. Sidedoor is one of my favorite local businesses in Indianapolis, and it’s because the people are so dang nice, and the bagels are so dang good.
Order a classic bagel and schmear combo (I recommend the rosemary sea salt if they have it when you’re there) or one of their bagel sandwiches, like the BECCY (“bacon, egg, cream cheese, yo!”) or a Lox & Loaded.
Take a morning stroll from Sidedoor Bagel, through the Bottleworks District of Mass Ave, to Coat Check Coffee, a coffee shop located in the historic Athenaeum. This shop is, you guessed it, located in the former coat check for the building. They serve delicious espresso, matcha, and an incredible ginger beer, but what you can’t miss is their lattes. The Coat Check team makes their own sauces and flavorings for each of the signature lattes, from the nutty and creamy pistachio latte to their bright ginger latte, as well as other flavors like mocha, butterscotch, and lime leaf. Walk up the impressive staircase and grab a seat on the quieter second floor to enjoy your drink.
Honorable Mentions
More of a “Choose Your Own Adventure” traveler? Here are some other favorites that you should definitely check out, either as a replacement for something on my list or on your return trip:
Daredevil Brewing in Speedway makes some of the best German-style beers in the city, and they’ve got plenty of awards to show for it.
Tastings is a wine bar located in the center of downtown Indianapolis (just a block from Monument Circle). Load up a card with whatever amount of money you want to spend and get access to 200+ wines that you can sample or pour by the glass.
Bluebeard is a must-try dinner spot with a James Beard-nominated chef. They don’t take reservations, so get there early or be prepared to wait. Amelia’s is their sister bakery, and it’s another can’t miss for bread and pastries.
Working Man’s Friend is a restaurant and bar that’s been serving the best smash burgers in Indianapolis for more than 100 years. Grab a smash burger, a schooner of beer, and cash — because it’s cash only.
Goose the Market is a specialty grocery store with a basement wine bar that serves oysters, escargot, and charcuterie from Smoking Goose. They also make some of the best sandwiches in the city (and maybe the entire country — try the Batali).
Turchetti’s Delicatessen is a hybrid restaurant/soccer bar/deli/butcher that also serves a mean smash burger, as well as an incredible pastrami sandwich.
Not food related, but if you’re looking for fun places to shop, I recommend Rooftop Fruit, Howl and Hide, The Botanical Bar, and Midland Arts and Antiques.
Looking for more ideas from locals? Check out this Redfin article.
What would you add to this list? DM me on Instagram @tasteindianapolis to tell me what I missed.
