How to Spend a Food-Fueled Weekend in Cleveland
When I was growing up, summers weren’t spent on the beach. We weren’t boating on a lake or spending time at a cottage somewhere near the water.
We went to Cleveland.
My sisters and I spent at least ten summers in Cleveland, visiting our grandparents, aunts, and uncle. We worked at our grandma’s kennel, helping take care of the dogs, feeding, cleaning, and (mostly) playing with them.
When work was over, we’d adventure across the city, spending time on the shores of Lake Erie, eating way too much Malley’s ice cream and junk food (thanks, grandpa!), and visiting the West Side Market. As a child, I loved going to Cleveland. As an adult, I still love Cleveland.
I recently spent a weekend in Cleveland, a four-ish hour drive from Indianapolis, and had as great of a time as ever. Cleveland is packed to the gills with great food, creative people, guzzle-able beer, and good times. Keep reading to see how we spent a food-driven weekend in the city.
Shopping & Eating at the West Side Market
The West Side Market is nearly always my first stop when I visit Cleveland. It’s been around for more than 100 years and boasts more than 100 vendors. So yeah, you might say there’s something for everyone here.
Fruits and veggies, fish, freshly butchered meat, baked goods, coffee, fresh pasta, prepared foods, hot foods, pickles… the goodies you can pick up at the market are almost limitless, but there’s one thing you should definitely do when you’re at the West Side Market: buy a gyro (cash only!) from Steve’s Gyros. They’re PACKED with gyro meat, tomatoes, onion, tzatziki, on a soft pita. They’re jumbo-sized, and definitely big enough to share (especially if you plan on trying other vendors at the market). You’ll probably have to wait in line, and Steve’s sells out daily, so get there early.
After getting my gyro fix, it’s time to shop. Make sure you visit Rita’s for pickles, olives, kraut, and my favorite, the stuffed pepperoncini. You can get them vegetarian (stuffed with only cream cheese), but I prefer their bacon and cream cheese stuffed pepperoncini. I love to grab fresh pasta from Ohio City Pasta, and I always bring a cooler so I can keep their incredible lobster cream sauce cold on the trip home. The Cheese Shop, Mediterra Bakehouse, and Bohar Bakery are all great stalls to stop at as you wander the market.
Hydrate With Great Beer
After all that shopping, you’re sure to be thirsty. Thankfully Cleveland’s most iconic brewery is across the street from the West Side Market.
Walk a block to Great Lakes Brewing Co. to enjoy one of their incredible beers. I love to sit in their cellar area downstairs, but the patio is a great place to spend a summer afternoon. Just another block away is Hansa Brewery, a brewery pouring authentic German beers (try their rauchbier if you like smokey beers, or their kölsch if you like something a little more tame).
While you’re in the neighborhood, you should treat yourself to a little something sweet from Farkas Bakery. Located directly across the street from Hansa, Farkas is a Hungarian bakery and pastry shop that’s been around since 1966. Get a napoleon, a nut roll, or, honestly, anything in their pastry case.
Explore Downtown Cleveland (And Eat More)
Another can’t-miss brewery downtown is Noble Beast Brewing, although you’ll need to jump in a car or bike to get there from Ohio City. On your way, stop at the Mall to take in the architecture and views of the lake. At one end of the mall, you’ll see the Browns stadium and Lake Erie, and at the other end, you’ll have a view of Terminal Tower, Key Tower, and the Fountain of Eternal Life.
Cleveland is chalk full of Art Deco architecture, and you’ll see it on almost every building as you walk downtown. One of the best examples of Art Nouveau architecture in the city is The Arcade, a beautiful glass roofed shopping arcade modeled after the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan, Italy.
Make your way toward East 4th Street and you’ll find a ton of bar and restaurant options, from casual spots to grab a beer before a Guardians or Cavs game to nationally-recognized five-star dinner spots. Cordelia is one of those nationally-recognized restaurants, and for good reason. They call their menu “modern grandma,” but I just call it good. Cordelia’s menu changes with the season, like any good restaurant’s should, and on my visit I was blown away by their carrot muhammara, smoked fish dip, tomato toast, and burger. On my list to try on my next visit to Cleveland: Goma, a Japanese restaurant specializing in sushi and nigiri.
My final downtown recommendation isn’t a restaurant or a bar. It’s a grocery store. If it’s wrong to love a grocery store, I don’t want to be right — Heinen’s is a treat to shop at. Their downtown store is in a beautiful, historic domed building (worth a visit even if you don’t need to buy anything), but their products and friendly staff make it worth taking a few minutes’ look.
Indulge Your Sweet Tooth (And Pick Up Gifts)
Before you head out of town, make time for Malley’s Chocolates. I mentioned it earlier in this post, but Malley’s was a big part of my childhood summers spent in Cleveland. I’m not sure how often we went to Malley’s (and I probably don’t want to know), but it was a special place.
Golden vanilla ice cream serves as the base for most of their ice cream treats, served in glass dishes in an old-fashioned ice cream parlor setting. Nuts, chocolates, fudge, marshmallow, and coconut are just a few of the ingredients that are included in their sundaes. I’m partial to the Black and White with hot fudge and marshmallow, or the Tin Roof with plenty of salty nuts on top.
Malley’s is a chocolate shop at heart, and each of their locations sells beautifully boxed chocolates, fudge, fruity candy, and more. Great for gifts! My favorite Malley’s location is the one on Lorain Road in North Olmstead, just outside of Cleveland proper. They have a (super slow-moving, don’t worry) carousel inside that you can sit on while you enjoy your ice cream. It’s a special place.
(Oh, and if you’re an Accidentally Wes Anderson fan, the Malley’s factory has been featured.)
Fuel Up With Bagels & Coffee
Don’t hit the road until you’ve properly fueled up! The Cleveland Bagel Company is slinging some of the best bagels in the midwest, and you’ll probably see a line out the door when you stop by. It’s for good reason. Order a bagel sandwich (I’m partial to the lox) or a bagel toasted with cream cheese (I’m partial to the rosemary bagel). I recommend eating it in your car (or outside, if weather permits) overlooking Lake Erie from the parking lot across the street.
Nearby Hecks Cafe is a family favorite of ours. They make a mean burger (and if you’ve got time, definitely order one) but their coffee is also incredible. Their coffee is blended with cocoa, giving you added decadent flavor without adding sugar to your cuppa. If you’re looking for something more substantial than a bagel for breakfast, head to Le Petit Triangle Cafe for French brunch or lunch fare.
Honorable Mentions: Things to Do In Cleveland
No Cleveland trip is complete (for me) without spending time on the lake and the river. You might end up in The Flats for a fun night out along the Cuyahoga River, or you might watch the sun set over Lake Erie at the Solstice Steps in Lakewood.
The Cleveland Museum of Art is beautiful, punches way above its weight class for a mid-sized city art museum, and is absolutely worth a stop for art lovers. If you’re a music lover, visit the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame.
No matter what you do, you’re sure to find fun and great food in the city. Cheers to that!